•  Mirin Made from glutinous rice, this sweet Japanese wine is used in sauces and glazes. I like it as a two-for-one ingredient in quick marinades in place of sugar and wine.
  • Miso Paste Miso is a thick, fermented soybean paste, salty and savory, with various flavors and color differences; white and yellow-brown miso are the most common. Stored in an airtight container, it keeps indefinitely in the fridge. Blended with boiling water, miso becomes a deeply savory vegetarian soup base. Or mix it with ponzu (see below) and brush over broiled fish to finish.
  • Breads: Naan and pappadum. Naan is an Indian flatbread and pappadum is a thin, crisp Indian flatbread made from lentil flour. More and more, these are sold in large supermarkets. In a pinch, I substitute pita bread for naan.
  • Fish Sauce A salty liquid made from fermented, salted fish, fish sauce is widely used in Southeast Asian cooking. Once you get over the off-putting smell—which does not translate to its taste—you’ll realize what an extraordinary flavor friend it is to complement sweet, spicy, and aromatic tastes. Think of it as playing a somewhat similar flavor note as soy sauce.
  • Canned Items: Water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, lychees, mandarin oranges, and coconut milk. All of these make for quick exotic add-ins to stir-fries, salads, desserts, or drinks.
  • Ponzu A tart-sweet thin Japanese sauce, ponzu is made from a combination of citrus, vinegar or sake, kombu seaweed, and dried bonito fish flakes. It supplies an unusual, zesty tang to other sauces.
  • Soy Sauce: Dark or tamari. I don’t like “lite” soy sauce, which lacks that umami punch. Dark soy sauce and Japanese tamari are thicker and more flavorful (tamari is even richer). Find a variety you like and stick with it. Avoid some of the inferior commercial versions, which will drastically alter or even ruin the flavor of a dish.
  • Noodles: Soba (buckwheat), rice vermicelli (also known as rice sticks), udon (wheat), and long Chinese egg noodles. Japanese and Chinese noodles generally take less time to cook than their Italian counterparts. Any Asian-style soup can be whipped up in seconds with a miso (see above) or dashi (see page 163) base, some noodles, and a little soy or hoisin for seasoning.
  • Hoisin This sweet and zesty thick brown sauce, also known as Peking sauce, is used in Chinese cooking (it’s the one included in your order of moo-shoo pork to spread on the pancakes) and as a table condiment. It’s a great finishing sauce to perk up an Asian soup.
  • Chutneys and Pickles: Mango chutney, coriander chutney, carrot pickle. An Indian meal can be truly enlivened by a variety of store-bought condiments. Mango chutney will add a sweet and pungent contrast to a warm and spicy dish, while a pickle lends a tangy saltiness.
  • Kombu This edible dried kelp makes a flavorful, satisfying vegetarian soup stock. it’s the basis for Dashi (page 163).
  • Coconut: Unsweetened, dried, shredded. I purchase this at the health food store. Once the package is open, keep it in the freezer. To toast, spread shredded coconut in a thin layer on a baking sheet and bake in a 300°F oven, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 15 minutes.
  • Oils: Peanut and sesame. Peanut oil is my preferred oil for stir-frying. It can be heated until very hot without smoking, and imparts a complementary flavor to Asian dishes. There are two styles of sesame oil. I use the toasted oil with a dark amber color and distinctive flavor in Asian sauces and marinades (the other kind is lighter in color and flavor). It should be kept refrigerated after opening
  • Thai Red Curry Paste Great canned or jarred Thai curry paste is now widely available to use as a convenience ingredient in Thai cooking. It’s a fragrant blend of red chili, lemongrass, galangal (Thai ginger), onion, kaffir lime, coriander, and salt. The delicious result can be integrated into numerous other dishes and sauces.
  • Rice Wine Vinegar I use plain rice wine vinegar; be careful not to accidentally pluck the seasoned variety off the shelf.
  • Sambal Oelek, a spicy paste made with fresh red chilies, has a grainy, slightly chunky texture. It’s a little more acidic than sriracha (see below). It’s used in marinades or as a seasoning.
  •  Dairy Plain yogurt is often served on its own as a coolant for an Indian meal, and it is the basis of the many versions of raita, a salad-like side dish. Blended with fruit or spices, water, and ice, it makes the refreshing drink called lassi. I like the thick Greek-style yogurt myself. Use the variety (regular, low-fat, or nonfat) you prefer. (Perishable
  • Citrus Limes are used most frequently in Asian cooking, but lemons are used in some dishes. (Produce)
  • Fresh Ginger Buy a “hand” and keep it the fridge. (It makes a quick healthful tea too.) (Produce)
  • Fresh Herbs Cilantro, mint, and basil. Grow your own if you can. Purchased from the market, they will last longer if rinsed, dried, rolled up in a damp towel, and stored in a plastic bag in the crisper. (Produce)
  • Green Thai or Bird Chilies I always buy a heap of these fresh green chilies when I see them, and keep them in the crisper. (Produce)
  • Sesame Seeds Store in the refrigerator or freezer because they will go rancid quickly. Some sesame seeds come already toasted—check the label. To toast other varieties, place the raw seeds in a skillet over medium-high heat and shake gently for a few minutes.
  • Panko Bread Crumbs These are packaged coarse dry bread crumbs used in Japanese cooking for coating food before frying. They come in both white and whole wheat versions. They deliver a crazy real crunch when used as a coating for oven-frying.
  • Spirits: Sake and Chinese cooking wine. Sake is Japanese rice wine; substitute vodka in a pinch. Shaoxing is Chinese cooking wine. If you cook a lot of Chinese food, it is worth seeking out a good brand of Shaoxing from a specialty store. Dry sherry can be substituted, although the taste will not be quite the same.
  • Sriracha Sauce This great hot sauce, which is smooth and spicy, is a must in our kitchen. It enhances the flavor of soups, rice, and eggs.
  • Rice: White and brown; long-grain, such as jasmine or basmati; short-grain; and glutinous. Rice stretches many meals and is a necessity for sopping up delicious juices from saucy foods. Just as you stock a couple of different pasta shapes, it’s a good idea to keep a variety of rices on hand.
  • Spices: Garam masala (an Indian blend of ground spices), cumin seeds and ground cumin, coriander seeds, cayenne pepper, cinnamon sticks, black poppy seeds, cloves, bay leaves, and Chinese five-spice powder. As with any spice, keep these well sealed in your cabinet. If undertaking a large Indian meal, check the spices you have on hand before you go out shopping to ensure pungency.
  • Spring Roll Skins These are paper-thin opaque white wrappers made from rice flour, tapioca, and water. Purchase from an Asian market or order online. They will keep in your pantry indefinitely.
  • Palm Sugar Also known as jaggery, palm sugar is made from the sap of certain palm trees. It comes in various forms, and I use the solid disks. The disks must be crushed or chopped before being added to a dish. Palm sugar brings a unique caramel-flavored sweetness to a dish and is worth seeking out, but you can substitute light brown sugar if necessary. Store in an airtight container.
  • Tamarind Used in Indian cooking and elsewhere, tamarind paste is made from the ground sour-sweet pulp of tamarind pods. Sold in cans, it adds a sour-earthy, slightly sweet note to savory sauces. You can also buy tamarind pulp (sold in brick form) and tamarind juice, which is actually the paste mixed with water and strained.
  • Wonton Skins Wonton skins are generally made from flour, eggs, and water, but the Japanese version, known as gyoza, leaves out the eggs. Prepackaged fresh (often in the dairy case) or frozen, they’re available in many supermarkets. They come in squares or rounds about 3 inches in diameter.