- Beans, Canned and Dried: Black beans, pinto beans, and red beans. Many Latin meals depend on beans, a healthful and economic way to feed a group. I keep a couple of cans of each on hand, but I always prefer dried beans (see also the entry in American Pantry, page 12).
- Chilies, Dried: Ancho, guajillo, and árbol. Latin cooking, especially Mexican, uses hundreds of varieties of dried chilies, which accounts for the subtle variations in sauces and dishes. Generally, dried red chilies of the same heat and texture can be used interchangeably.
- Tortillas: Corn and flour. Good-quality packaged corn and flour tortillas are now widely sold in supermarkets, but there is nothing like a fresh tortilla. If you live near a Mexican community, seek out a small market that sells them.
- Chipotle Chilies: Canned in adobo, and chipotle chili powder. Chipotles are smoked jalapeños most often canned in adobo sauce (a mixture of paprika, oregano, and garlic sauce). Chipotles add a smoky, earthy flavor but can overwhelm a recipe if not used sparingly.
- Dried Corn Husks Dried papery corn husks from corncobs are used to wrap tamales. They last forever in the pantry, sealed in a plastic bag; just rehydrate in warm water to use.
- Masa Harina This dough flour is made by grinding the dried masa (corn paste) used for tamales. I also make homemade tortillas with this. With a tortilla press and a comal, it’s easy to make fresh tortillas.
- Smoked Chorizo A dried, spicy Spanish pork sausage, not to be confused with its fresh cousin. Smoked chorizo will keep in your fridge almost indefinitely. A small link chopped up adds a delicious spicy- porky flavor to scrambled eggs or fried potatoes. Smoked chorizo is showcased in Queso Fundido (page 118).
- Cojita This dry, firm, salty cheese is used crumbled or grated. (Perishable)
- Mexican Crema This is similar in flavor to sour cream but runnier; substitute sour cream if necessary. (Perishable)
- Monterey Jack Cheese A good melting cheese for Latin dishes. (Perishable)
- Queso Fresco Comes in a block and is crumbled before using. Some cooks use feta cheese as a substitute. (Perishable)
- Poblano chilies Really fresh poblano peppers have some heat but not too much; their herbaceous, earthy yet fresh flavor is extraordinary. Roasted and peeled, they can be sautéed with onions to top steaks. When buying, check to see that the skin is not shriveled; the fresher the chili, the easier the skins will slide off once charred. (Produce)
- Scotch bonnet and habañero chilies So called for their resemblance to a Scottish tam, blazingly hot fresh Scotch bonnets are used widely in Caribbean cuisine. A close relation is the lantern-shaped habañero chili. Both have a high heat level, thin flesh, and almost fruity citrus-like flavor. Use them interchangeably. (Produce)
- Serrano and jalapeño chilies Serranos are generally smaller and spicier than jalapeños, but I often use the two interchangeably. Jalapeños have been so overcultivated that the heat factor now varies widely among them; I always buy extra and taste before using. Some are as mild as a green bell pepper! Serranos are always spicy and powerful. When fresh chilies are called for in a recipe, pay attention to the size and buy accordingly: often one large is all you need when two regular are called for. (Produce)
- Limes The ubiquitous citrus in Latin cooking. (Produce)
- Tomatillos Sometimes called Mexican green tomatoes, tomatillos are a “savory” fruit covered with a papery husk. They are the main ingredient in Mexico’s green table sauces. The flavor is tangy yet slightly sweet. Remove the husks. (Produce)